At Vinitaly, the Wines of Hungary stand offers a wide range of products from one of Hungary’s outstanding wine regions, Tokaj. This is where the Harsányi Winery comes from, and we asked owner Gábor Harsányi about an exciting local sweet wine, Tokaj Szamorodni, and the winery’s organic farming practices.
What makes the Tokaj wine region so special?
Tokaj is unique in many ways. It is no coincidence that it has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as Tokaj was the first enclosed wine region in the world. The confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog Rivers creates a unique microclimate, and the diverse and varied, mainly volcanic soils make its terroir even more special. Most of the wines produced in the area are made from Furmint, Muscat Blanc and Hárslevelű.
Tokaj has always been famous for its sweet wines, but more recently the region has been making a name for itself in the field of dry wines. In addition, more and more winemakers are beginning to delve into the world of bubbles, producing fantastic sparkling wines in a variety of styles. The region’s acid-sugar balance in sweet wines is almost unique in the world. When it comes to presenting Hungary as a wine-producing nation, it’s almost inconceivable not to include at least one wine from the region.
Please introduce us to the Harsányi Winery!
Our vineyards are located in Sárospatak, in the heart of the historic Tokaj wine region, on 12 hectares directly below the Megyer Hill, one of the most beautiful hiking areas in the country. We try to capture and bottle the inimitable terroir of four vineyards with excellent growing conditions – Királyhegy, Megyer, Kútpatka and Ciróka. The unique terroir is formed by the volcanic rocks of the rhyolitic tuff, the special soil structure and the proximity of the Bodrog River. This rare and fortunate combination gives each of our wines an exceptional personality. We have great respect for this extraordinary gift of nature, which is why we are committed to organic farming.
We make wines that express the individual qualities of our vineyards and the characteristics of our terroir. We work with the three classic Tokaj grape varieties: Furmint, Hárslevelű and Muscat Blanc. While respecting tradition, our style can best be described as modern. In the vinification process, we try to preserve the fresh fruity notes and highlight the individual character of our vineyards, while keeping the alcohol content low. Our range includes 6-puttonyos Aszú, Fordítás, dry and sweet Szamorodni, Late Harvest and dry single-vineyard wines. We like to experiment, and not just with wines.
You have been farming organically since 2020, why did you decide to make the switch?
Actually, we have always made our wines with an organic approach. From the 2020 vintage onwards, our wines have been certified not only organic but also vegan. We can’t imagine our wines any other way. We want to repay this fantastic gift from nature by keeping intervention to minimum in winemaking.
At the “A multidimensional Hungarian variety: Furmint” masterclass, participants will have the opportunity to taste your winery’s Szamorodni. This is a lesser-known category than Aszú, can you give us a brief introduction to this wine?
Szamorodni is actually the little brother of the world-famous Aszú. With Aszú, the shrivelled berries are harvested one by one, whereas with Szamorodni the whole bunch is harvested and processed in one go, so the ‘normal’ and the noble rot berries are vinified at the same time. The name is Polish and means ‘as it comes’. The Poles were once great fans and buyers of this style of wine. We make both dry and sweet versions.
Nowadays only a few people make dry Szamorodni, but it is a very exciting wine to make with this special process. In Sárospatak we make both sweet and dry Szamorodni, if the vintage allows it. At Vinitaly we are presenting our 2019 sweet Szamorodni to the public. This wine has notes of fresh pear, dried apricot and candied orange peel. The finish reveals notes of mushrooms and dry straw, typically associated with Aszús. Our Szamorodni goes well with meat dishes and mature cheeses.
Which wine should visitors not miss at the Harsányi stand and why?
At this year’s event, one of our flagship wines, Tokaj Eye, is the one you shouldn’t miss. This wine has everything that is typical for Tokaj, Sárospatak and Harsányi Winery. It is a blend of the three most popular Tokaj varieties. The Furmint gives the wine nice acidity and minerality, the Hárslevelű and the Muscat Blanc fruit and subtle spice notes. And the label symbolises the beautiful Megyer-hegy Tengerszem, located close to the winery.
For more information about the masterclasses click HERE!