Guests at the Wines of Hungary stand at Vinitaly will be able to get a comprehensive overview of the Tokaj wine region, thanks to the three wineries exhibiting. Representing Royal Tokaji, we asked Zoltán Kovács about their single vineyard dry Furmints, but the winery director also highlighted the importance of Tokaji aszú in their portfolio.
The Tokaj wine region has been famous for centuries for its sweet wines, but in recent decades there have been significant changes, can you bring us up to date with the latest trends?
The historically famous Tokaj aszú has proudly represented the uniqueness and distinctiveness of Tokaj for many centuries, and still does today. Adapting to the changing habits of customers, but of course also assessing the potential of the wine region, Tokaj producers see an enormous potential in dry white wines produced on volcanic terroir. Royal Tokaji, as one of the leading quality producers in the region, has been producing these white wines since 2003 and we are gaining recognition and consumers not only in our domestic markets but also abroad.
Among Tokaj dry wines, Furmint has taken pride of place. For those who are not yet familiar with this style, how would you describe the factors leading to its popularity?
Furmint is a native variety of the wine region, and is excellent at reflecting the characteristics of the region – the volcanic soil gives minerality to the variety, the northeastern location of the wine region and the climatic conditions provide a steely backbone through the acids, which contribute to the final balance, character, and uniqueness of dry white Furmint wines. Furmint is not a fragrant variety, but when tasted, it immediately shows its unique characteristics: freshness, minerality, acid balance, and an incredibly dense structure.
Several single-vineyard selected Furmint wines are available for tasting at the winery’s stand, and two of them have been included in the “A multidimensional Hungarian variety: Furmint” masterclass. Could you tell me more about these vineyards?
The Szent Tamás vineyard is a great classic, perhaps the most well-known and esteemed first-class vineyard of the wine region, which partly faces southwest towards the Royal Tokaji winery and partly faces east towards a valley. The eastern-facing part of the vineyard enjoys a cooler climate. The soil in both parts is rich in red clay, intermingled with volcanic rocks on the surface and beneath, among which various metal oxides and zeolites rich in minerals are perhaps the most important.
The Szt. Tamás Furmint is incredibly well-structured and concentrated, with elegance balanced by perfect acidity. The crisp acidity strikes the right balance with the ripe fruit, while barrel aging adds discreet spice notes to the wine. It is a multi-layered wine with a long and intense finish, presenting the vineyard from which it originates in the best possible light.
The Úrágya vineyard is historically classified as a third-class site. It’s worth noting that the historical classification was based on the vineyards’ capacity to produce sweet wines. Indeed, it doesn’t excel in the production of sweet wines, but it showcases its diverse qualities when producing dry wines. The name of the vineyard, located on the western border of Mád, comes from the fact that the residents of Mád saw the sun (referred to as “the Lord” by the ancient Hungarians) setting behind the prominent hill on the western side of the settlement, hence the meaning of Úrágya is “the place where the Sun sets.” Our vineyard extends from the upper point of the slope to the western and eastern hillsides, with soil composed of clay mixed with minerals.
Úrágya Furmint is a powerful wine where minerality and acidity beautifully balance the ripe fruits. Barrel ageing embellishes the wine with appealing spice notes.
After introducing the wine region and the vineyards, let’s move on to the most important information regarding the winery.
Royal Tokaji was established in 1990 when a group of 62 vineyard owners came together with overseas investors led by Hugh Johnson, the noted British author and wine historian. From the outset our goal has been to revive and bring back to international acclaim the wines of one of history’s most renowned wine regions. Of our 108 hectares of vineyards, 57 hectares are situated in three First Growths – Szt. Tamás, Nyulászó, Betsek – and in one Great First Growth of Mézes Mály. These vineyards have been considered to be among the greatest in the region since the early 18th century.
Our 14th century cellars provide the perfect environment for ageing the wines. The potential lifespan of some of these wines can be measured in centuries rather than mere decades. While inspired by the incomparable history of this unique region we are committed to a continual quest for improvement. In 2010 a new trailblazing winery was completed giving our winemakers access to the very best technology and equipment which would be the envy of our forefathers. Royal Tokaji remains in private ownership and our wines are exported to over 30 countries. We have received over 100 international awards and are regularly named as one of the finest wineries in the world.
Which is the wine that you should definitely not miss at the Royal Tokaj stand and why?
The most important products of Royal Tokaji are the 5 and 6 puttonyos aszú wines, which are also produced as single-vineyard selections in the best vintages. First and foremost, we recommend tasting these historical wines because they highlight the uniqueness, richness, and complex historical significance of the wine region, which have been worthy companions to royal and imperial tables for centuries. Of course, we also recommend Royal Tokaji’s dry wines because they can illuminate the strengths of the wine region in a completely new dimension, where minerality, acidity balance, and structure are paramount.
For more information about the masterclasses click HERE!